Written by Kenny StodolaMarch 18, 2020
Vogue Italia will not use photo shoots in January issue to make statement about sustainability
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ToggleVogue Italia will not feature any photo shoots in its January 2020 issue to make a statement about sustainability.
In a note published on Wednesday,Vogue Italia’s editor-in-chief Emanuele Farneti explained the fashion magazine’s reasoning, citing the numerous resources required to create the 2019 September issue, the biggest issue of the year.
“One hundred and fifty people involved. Twenty flights, ten trains. Forty machines available. Sixty international expeditions. At least 10 hours of light on continuously, partly powered by gasoline generators. Food waste from catering. Plastic to wrap clothes. Power to recharge phones, cameras…” Farneti wrote.
According to Farneti, the decision to omit photo shoots from the January issue was made on the basis of “intellectual honesty” – and the acknowledgement that “there is a significant environmental impact associated with publishing a fashion magazine”.
Instead of photographs, the issue, which will be available on newsstands on 7 January, features eight illustrated covers created by artists “who have created without travelling, shipping clothes or polluting in any way”.
“The challenge was to prove that, as an exception, it is possible to show clothes without photographing them,” Farneti explained, adding that this is the first time Vogue Italia has ever had an illustrated cover and that, as far as he is aware, this is the first time Vogue has printed an issue without photography since the existence of the medium.
While the change is temporary, the money saved from the sustainable issue will go to Fondazione Querini Stampalia, a cultural centre in Venice that was recently damaged by flood waters.
“We will be donating the saved funds to the restoration of this foundation, because although the magazine will return to its normal production routine tomorrow, it’s nice to think that something will remain of this issue: a small but concrete gesture,” Farneti said.
Farneti also announced that from now on, Condé Nast Italia will only use compostable plastic to wrap the magazine.
The decision to acknowledge and commit to sustainability in the print magazine industry comes after Farneti and 25 other international Vogue editors made a pledge in December to help “preserve our planet for future generations”.
1/10 November 1988, American Vogue
Anna Wintour’s first cover for American Vogue was era-defining in more ways than one. Namely because Wintour subverted a decade-long tradition of only putting elaborate occasionwear on magazine covers. Instead, she chose a beaded Christian Lacroix jacket and stone-wash Guess jeans. The smiley photograph that Lindbergh captured of Israeli model Michaela Bercu lends itself to a similarly unvarnished aesthetic, one that soon became Lindbergh’s trademark.
Vogue
2/10 September 1990, British Vogue
This cover marks a rare moment for Lindbergh, given that its star is not a supermodel. Now an established jewellery designer, Jade Jagger is perhaps best known for being the daughter of Rolling Stones front man, Mick Jagger. She was just 19 years old at the time of this shoot and had just left boarding school in Wiltshire. Here, Lindbergh shot her unusually close-up, erasing the outline of her face to produce a truly unique image.
Vogue
3/10 January 1990, British Vogue
Ask any Vogue fan which is their favourite cover of all time, and most will name this one. Lindbergh famously photographed Naomi, Linda, Tatjana, Christy and Cindy at the height of their fame. What’s more, he allowed their beauty to stand on its own, eschewing glittering gowns and garish makeup for jeans, stretchy tops and bare faces.
Vogue
4/10 March 1990, British Vogue
If anyone can put a horse on the cover of British Vogue without making it look like an equestrian catalogue, it’s Lindbergh. For this special international collections issue, he photographed Danish supermodel Helena Christensen with a majestic horse whose coat matched the optic whiteness of her column dress by Giorgio di Sant’Angelo.
Vogue
5/10 September 1992, British Vogue
In a somewhat grungier cover than is usual for Lindbergh, Linda Evangelista poses as a tattooed, chain-laden New York City taxi driver.
Vogue
6/10 October 2016, Vogue Italy
In this cover, Lindbergh returned to his one of favoured aesthetics: sepia. Film met fashion in this snap – one of the three covers chosen for the issue – with Isabeli Fontana, Carolyn Murphy and Milla Jovovich captured strolling down the street in New York City’s Times Square wearing androgynous ensembles by Gucci. “I wanted to tell a story on the street,” Lindbergh said of his concept. “And while often in magazines the act of walking is portrayed in a stereotyped and frankly boring way, this is where looking to the future is for me.”
Vogue
7/10 January 2019, Vogue Japan
Tilda Swinton looks almost unrecognisable in this Vogue Japan cover, sporting a black bob and an embellished blue jacket from Chanel’s Haute Couture collection. With this cover, Lindbergh showed he can reinvent even one of the most famous actors with his imagery.
Vogue
8/10 April 2018, Vogue Australia
Emma Watson was chosen as the guest editor for this issue of the Australian fashion publication, which was focused on tackling issues related to global warming. The British actor was photographed by Lindbergh for the cover in a ruffled black gown with her hair blowing in the wind. “Thank you, Peter Lindbergh,” Watson wrote in her editor’s letter, praising the artist’s “careful eye”.
Vogue
9/10 July 2019, Vogue Germany
This year’s July issue of Vogue Germany was dedicated to the late Karl Lagerfeld, who died in February. The former Chanel and Fendi creative director was honoured by Lindbergh with three covers featuring Birgit Kos, Luna Bijl and Vittoria Ceretti. All three models wore looks from Chanel and Fendi. All of the images exuded a peacefulness as provided by the serene beach landscapes in the background.
Vogue
10/10 September 2019, British Vogue
Lindbergh photographed 15 people for the September issue of British Vogue, which was guest-edited by the Duchess of Sussex. For the issue, which was dubbed “Forces for Change”, Meghan chose women hailing from politics, film and fashion. Each portrait was taken in a different style with different proportions, but all of them paid homage to Lindbergh’s signature natural style.
AFP/Getty
1/10 November 1988, American Vogue
Anna Wintour’s first cover for American Vogue was era-defining in more ways than one. Namely because Wintour subverted a decade-long tradition of only putting elaborate occasionwear on magazine covers. Instead, she chose a beaded Christian Lacroix jacket and stone-wash Guess jeans. The smiley photograph that Lindbergh captured of Israeli model Michaela Bercu lends itself to a similarly unvarnished aesthetic, one that soon became Lindbergh’s trademark.
Vogue
2/10 September 1990, British Vogue
This cover marks a rare moment for Lindbergh, given that its star is not a supermodel. Now an established jewellery designer, Jade Jagger is perhaps best known for being the daughter of Rolling Stones front man, Mick Jagger. She was just 19 years old at the time of this shoot and had just left boarding school in Wiltshire. Here, Lindbergh shot her unusually close-up, erasing the outline of her face to produce a truly unique image.
Vogue
3/10 January 1990, British Vogue
Ask any Vogue fan which is their favourite cover of all time, and most will name this one. Lindbergh famously photographed Naomi, Linda, Tatjana, Christy and Cindy at the height of their fame. What’s more, he allowed their beauty to stand on its own, eschewing glittering gowns and garish makeup for jeans, stretchy tops and bare faces.
Vogue
4/10 March 1990, British Vogue
If anyone can put a horse on the cover of British Vogue without making it look like an equestrian catalogue, it’s Lindbergh. For this special international collections issue, he photographed Danish supermodel Helena Christensen with a majestic horse whose coat matched the optic whiteness of her column dress by Giorgio di Sant’Angelo.
Vogue
5/10 September 1992, British Vogue
In a somewhat grungier cover than is usual for Lindbergh, Linda Evangelista poses as a tattooed, chain-laden New York City taxi driver.
Vogue
6/10 October 2016, Vogue Italy
In this cover, Lindbergh returned to his one of favoured aesthetics: sepia. Film met fashion in this snap – one of the three covers chosen for the issue – with Isabeli Fontana, Carolyn Murphy and Milla Jovovich captured strolling down the street in New York City’s Times Square wearing androgynous ensembles by Gucci. “I wanted to tell a story on the street,” Lindbergh said of his concept. “And while often in magazines the act of walking is portrayed in a stereotyped and frankly boring way, this is where looking to the future is for me.”
Vogue
7/10 January 2019, Vogue Japan
Tilda Swinton looks almost unrecognisable in this Vogue Japan cover, sporting a black bob and an embellished blue jacket from Chanel’s Haute Couture collection. With this cover, Lindbergh showed he can reinvent even one of the most famous actors with his imagery.
Vogue
8/10 April 2018, Vogue Australia
Emma Watson was chosen as the guest editor for this issue of the Australian fashion publication, which was focused on tackling issues related to global warming. The British actor was photographed by Lindbergh for the cover in a ruffled black gown with her hair blowing in the wind. “Thank you, Peter Lindbergh,” Watson wrote in her editor’s letter, praising the artist’s “careful eye”.
Vogue
9/10 July 2019, Vogue Germany
This year’s July issue of Vogue Germany was dedicated to the late Karl Lagerfeld, who died in February. The former Chanel and Fendi creative director was honoured by Lindbergh with three covers featuring Birgit Kos, Luna Bijl and Vittoria Ceretti. All three models wore looks from Chanel and Fendi. All of the images exuded a peacefulness as provided by the serene beach landscapes in the background.
Vogue
10/10 September 2019, British Vogue
Lindbergh photographed 15 people for the September issue of British Vogue, which was guest-edited by the Duchess of Sussex. For the issue, which was dubbed “Forces for Change”, Meghan chose women hailing from politics, film and fashion. Each portrait was taken in a different style with different proportions, but all of them paid homage to Lindbergh’s signature natural style.
AFP/Getty
Regarding the photograph-free issue, Farneti told The New York Times that “declarations are not enough” and “it’s very important that you actually act”.
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