Attendance at—and outside—the fall shows suggests that fashion is back big time. In this apparent return to normalcy, street style offers a bit of a plot twist. The concurrence of trends on the runway and la rue, as documented for us by Phil Oh, indicates that the trickle-up/ trickle-down binary has become more of a two-way street, much as gender has become a more fluid concept.
The conversation around gender has, counterintuitively, brought tailoring to the fore; as Gucci’s Alessandro Michele put it, “Women are really interested in men’s suits.” On the street this translated into a new take on Annie Hall’s androgynous style—with or without a preppy tie. Taking up space can be a way to express power or to keep people at arm’s length. Designs that carve shapes into the ether by way of pointy shoulders or exaggerated and voluminous curves made the rounds this season. Their drama was countered by the cool orderliness of winter whites, which are perhaps the maximal expression of minimalism, the equivalent of a blank page.
At the same time that the metaverse is making segues into fashion, people on the street are doubling down on the materiality of clothing, defining their bodies with corsetry or putting a premium on tactility. Fun faux furs were everywhere. Nostalgia was similarly pervasive, leading to a sort of cosplay around stereotypical types and styles. Miss Havisham made an appearance via frilly white dresses; punks’ plaid was revisited, as was Western gear and, despite rising gas prices, motocross gear. Most in tune with the times, however, is wearing your heart on your sleeve.
Annie Hall 2.0
Borrowed-from-the-boys looks ruled the streets—think oversized blazers and trousers paired with boxy coats, chunky loafers, and even vests.